March break sewing

MARCH BREAK 

Saturday: Made up the muslin of the Sabrina slims (see last post for details)

Sunday: Sewed up a pair of Carolyn PJ shorts. Ottawa daugther claimed that her Christmas PJ shorts were too snug, so I decided to make her a back-up pair. I just used my size (so I skipped a couple of sizes; these will likely be too loose! Goldilocks, anyone?!). I used some of the Mitchell pants viscose linen blend as the main, and the blue plaid from the Brownie dress as contrast. They are, if I say so myself, DELIGHTFUL. That viscose linen blend feels like silk. I want more clothes made from it! If Ottawa daughter does not like them, the will fit me. And, I think, can be worn all day, not just as PJs!

Prompted by the Pattern Review monthly Pop-up sew-along (Embellishments), I decided to add some decorative edge-stitching to the pockets. I had been thinking since the previous makes that top-stitching would be useful here. I almost forgot about all the fancy stitches on my Juki, and only as I was looking at the more limited options on my every-day Elna did I remember to check out the options. (Every time I use those stitches, the amortized cost of that machine goes down ... but it is still high!)

 

Sabrina slimsWorked most of the day on the Sabrina slims. I had mostly cut them out on Sunday. I added some length (a bit too much, in retrospect!). Working with the ponte knit was very interesting. It almost feels like... suede? 

I had been unhappy with the finishing of the welt pocket as directed by the pattern, so I followed the back welt pocket instructions provided by the Mitchell Pants (Closet Core). I used a lining material (instead of self-fabric) for the pocket bag. It went FAIRLY well. I decided to stitch-in the ditch (instead of struggling to sew down a tiny seam allowance from the insde.) It does not look beautiful. I also still have trouble sewing down that little triangle piece on the inside of the welt - that is where I usually introduce a slightly unsightly pucker. 

I also must have missed a step because the part of the pocket bag which extends up (to the waistband), is not secured, and so I need to go back and retro-fix that. I wore the pants on the Montreal frock-trip. Popped a few seams.... I thought the vertical seams would be safe! Have mended them, but need to rethink how I sew them if I do it again.

Amazing technicolour dream-coat

Finished cutting the squares. At least, I thought I had (I had counted, or rather, mis-counted, 200 squares.) I borrowed a quilting board to place all the squares, and ended up with 17 rows of 10. I am hoping that it will be enough because, much to my surprise, I seem to be out of fabric to use. (that is, fabric the right size and colour and weight). I also researched different flat-fell seaming methods, and developed a plan of attack.

I am using a method which calls for two, rather than three, seams. I found this youtube video helpful. You place two pieces wrong sides together, offset by about a cm. Fold over the extension, stitch 1/4 inch from the fold, then fold that over and edge stitch. 

I developed a system. At first I lay out all the squares, then rotated the entire row, turn each piece over, then used the ruler to draw a line where I need to line up the piece. I needed to rotate the row because of how I need to place the ruler. Did this stop me from placing wrong side to right side a few times? No, of course not!  After a few rows I came up with a more efficent system of flipping the squares to draw the line. YAY!

I also learned that if you stich  that first seam less than 1/4 inch, your second seam-line is too close to the first! 

In any case, once you have a system, it can go pretty quickly. I got all of the rows sewed up and have sewn three rows together. They don't look as pretty as I would have hoped - there are puckers where I sew over a folded over flat fell (no wonder, about 8 thicknesses of fabric there!) Am hoping that it all just fits together in the jacket!

The photos below demonstrate my flat-fell seaming method. I also am trying to figure out how this method affects a 5/8 inch seam allowance. But I may not do flat felled seams in the garment, because I will have even thicker bumps to sew over!

wrong sides together, offset top piece

fold over bottom piece, sew at 1/4 inch

Fold over again, edge stitch

 I also made up the muslin of the Sienna maker jacket. I did most of the techniques, in order to pratise, and identify any possible errors. The fit is so boxy that I think the fit is fine. And once I get my squares all sewn up, it will sew up quickly. As of Friday evening though I am beginning to worry that I may not have enough, so have begun thinking of back-up plans... beige denim or other beige (or tea-dyed) fabric for some pieces...

Raincoat (or adventures in international pattern purchasing!)

So after offering the resident entomologist to make a rain coat in the fall (from fabric purchased for pants, but discovered to be not the right stuff), I had decided that I could not find a pattern, so I would use the fabric to make wind/rain pants for cycle commuting. Until he asked me if I was still making him a rainjacket, because his 20+ year old gore-tex rain jacket was no longer doing its job. So back to the drawing board. I was having trouble finding a suitable pattern, namely one that used a non-stretch fabric, had raglan sleeves, and a few other features. In the fall someone had provided a link to this pattern. It looked good, but as you can see if you clicked the link, it contains nearly NO information. How much fabric required? Is it no-stretch? Anyway, this week I took the leap and decided 'how bad can it be'?

BAD! I first had trouble negotiating the payment loop (all in Spanish). But I did get the pattern link. No scale line visible. A reponse to my query provided a response that I could not decode. Got it printed up, they needed t print it twice (it would not all fit on one width), so it cost a bit more than usual. Fine. Good news is that each piece is labelled in English as well as Spanish. And what does it say on each piece? 'lycra' (except for pocket bags with say RED. HUH?) It comes with NO instructions (not even a diagram). And I am not even sure if it includes the seam allowance or not...

Follow-up - cycling rain jacket

Made up a "quick and dirty" muslin. Way too tight,  AND, because it has a side panel piece not conducive to  pit-zips. So abandon ship. I changed my search terms to 'rain jacket raglan sleeves' and have found a simple pattern which I am hoping works! It is a site called 'Fashion freaks' and is part of something called independent living institute. It is a free pattern, with minimal instructions. I have made up a quick and dirty muslin of this new version, and it is much better. It is a bit large, but easy to scale down. I will lengthen the back (to get a better cyclists coverage), and add a zipper guard. I also need to add the pit-zips, and maybe a pocket.

MONTREAL 'field trip'

I took the train to Montreal with two 'frock-friends' for a trip to the fabric shops. Lovely day, not too rushed, but not too long. Went to Rix Rax (a step back in time - haberdashery, buttons, ribbons etc.) Also visited a wool shop (La maison tricotée) while we waited (and there we learned that the owner at Rix Rax doesn't always open promptly at noon 😏. I bought some lovely wool to make mittens. 

Then to  St. Hubert street, Gamma-tex 7399  St. Hubert street (can't find a web-site, but don't let that deter you!), an amazing selection of higy quality fabrics. We all bought something - I purchased two metres of a tropical weight wool with which I shall make the Mitchell pants, and some wool jersey.

And that, folks, was my March break!