Sabrina slims

Some months ago I purchased some golden coloured ponte to make up a pair of Sabrina Slims by Love Notions. These are a cigarette-style, pull on pant made in a stretch fabric. I purchased some random, inexpensive, t-shirt jersey to make up a muslin. The stretch is not the same, so the use of the muslin will be limited. It will give me an idea of the fit, and it will allow me to figure out the construction, including practising the welt pockets. (Always a good idea to practise making up welt pockets!). 

So I did end up tracing the pattern last weekend, and on Saturday I cut out the muslin. 

When I went up to the sewing room to finally sew them, I felt too lazy to switch the needle to a stretch fabric needle, so instead worked on my scrappy project. I described this in my post of February 12, I am cutting out squares in several sizes: 2"X2"; 3"X3' or 5"X5". (I am also cutting out 6X6 inch squares but those are for the amazing technicolour dreamcoat, and I have not cut any in several weeks because I am reluctant to cut into the pants that I will never finish nor wear!).  I sewed up a few more rows of small and large squares, with the sashing, and have nearly enough for the first project - the thread stand dust cover. (Trialing the dust cover by throwing this over the thread I have noticed it is kind of awkward to put on and remove, since the thread stand is on a higher shelf... may need to add a zipper front!) What is fun about this project is that it does not have to be perfect (it won't be a quilt top, for example). The squares are not all perfectly on the grain, nor are they all perfectly sized... but that is because I am working with scraps! And it feels good to use them, but not really reducing the scrap-stash at any great speed!

Ziggy and Ottawa daughter have stayed here for a few days (allergies be damned, I guess!). He is being a bit feisty on her walks, and has gotten so big he is hard to control. We are very hopeful that a) this is a phase and b) she will learn some tricks to train him from a trainer she has hired. Various Ziggy duties and a joint walk today (Saturday) did take some time away from sewing!

(Several days later.... I did not post the above because I did not have any photos yet!)

I have been working on the Sabrina Slims muslin. The t-shirt knit is a pain to work with, in that the edges roll in, so it is hard to line them up with each other AND with the stitching line! It seems I also have sewn it inside out. I learned last year, in an off-hand comment a PR member made in a review that (duh, of course) knits have the same structure as my hand-knit work, meaning that there will be a knit and purl side. Not sure if industrial knits use any kind of knit/purl variation?). In an case, when observed with a magnifyinglens, I noticed that I had my knit stitches on the inside. 

Not a problem becaue these are a muslin, and probaly not really something I will want to wear...

I am NOT pleased with the inside finish of the back welt pocket. It shows the 'guts' in all their glory! I have never seen a garment where interfacing is left visible (seen on the inside). See photo - this appears to be the finished look! So this meant I will need to redraft the pocket bag and procedure, using the Mitchell pants guide (since I know it works, and I have it on hand!)

Photo at left shows the finished welt from the outside. Looks fine. Not perfect, but respectable!

I think overall the size is fine. It is hard to really know since my final fabric is quite different! (A bit less stretch, and much beefier). Purists would say that I should do a muslin with a more similar fabric. But I don't see the point of paying the same for the muslin as the final!

The waist might be a bit loose, but I did not put in the elastic; frankly I would rather not.... but I will think about it for the final. The back rise might be a bit low. I think I might raise it slightly.

So changes to make: I think I will also lengthen the legs, I will copy the Mitchell back welt pocket constrcution to get rid of this eyesore, and just sew the seams a bit smaller to make up for the different stretch.

So I should get to it!

They are very form fitting, and I am not sure I can actually get rid of all that wrinkling

I know it is hard to see details on such a dark fabric, but I think that it gives me enough of a sense to say go ahead.
    

My plans for today are to cut out the ponte, sew up the Carolyn PJ shorts I am making for Ottawa daughter (apparently the Christmas pair is a bit too snug), and to cut more 6 X 6 squares, hoping to get the dreamcoat squares organized this week!

I also ordered a cycling jacket pattern. I have decided to make the resident entomologist a rain jacekt after all, with the neo-shell I bought last fall. (Abandoning the rainpants for now).