Slow sewing!

I have not been doing a lot of sewing since my last post. I have been working on a couple of projects, but so slowly that I have nothing to report!

I have been making a new pair of Mitchell pants - from the red and white silk/wool blend from my Sewing friend Carol. My first pair are fitting a bit tight. Did they shrink? Did I ... grow? Probably the latter - I did a new muslin from a bigger size, did a flat seat adjustment, and got the go ahead to sew them up from my local sewing friends.

successful welt pocket

They are all cut out, the front pockets are partially attached, one back welt pocket is done. The work needs to be precise, so I have not had the energy to work on it in the evening.

beautiful window for welt

I have also been working on McCall's 6044 for the resident entomologist (short sleeved button up dress shirt with two part collar.). There was some shirting fabric available at my local independent fabric store. It is a blend of mostly cotton, some nylon and some elastene. I hesitated - how much do I want synthetic fabrics in my makes? The intended recipienet mentioned that the previous version I had made was just a tad tight across the shoulders. So I decided a bit of eslatene would help (rather than trace and make another size!). The nylon may help with durability. The fabric is fascinating because it is SO thin and light. 

I wanted to do proper flat felled seams on this. What are 'proper' flat-felled seams you ask? Well, let me tell you!

not quite finished

 I discovered a video a couple of years ago which explained the difference between an 'authentic' flat felled seam, and the ... dummed down (?) method that is often used. The latter method, which requires that you trim your seam allowance and then fold the other edge over, produces a weaker seam. (And why would I need extra strength in a shirt you ask? Sometimes I get an idea in my head and it is hard to shake!)

  

So I was concentrated on using the 'authentic' method for my shirt. Of course I didn't review it before I started, thoug, and realize I did it a bit differently!  I did the shoulder seams. They were meh. Then I tried several times to do the armscyes. In the end, I abandoned the effort and did French seams.

Strangely, while looking up something else, instructions that I was unable to find in a specific search showed up in the 'feed'., in this video. I am still not sure I could have done it, because it was essentially what I tried. Someone pointed out that due to the curve, if the pattern piece was not adjusted for the offset seam allowance, I would have trouble easing the pieces together.

The collar gave me a bit of grief. Did my neck edge stretch? I did stay-stitch it early in the process. Did my flat fell seams change the length of the neck edge? In the end it has a bit of puckering, and also in the edge-stitching, but I think it will pass!

More close-up photos will follow.

pucker

a bit better

I have also quickly made up a few other Christmas projects: a cutlery roll and two packing cubes.

I want to get this posted, so will do so with only a few photos.

Wishing my friends and readers Merry Christmas!

Christmas gifts