Atenas Jeans Jacket - take two

 

 

Ever since I made my first Atenas jeans jacket and discovered my head-slapping error, I have wanted to remake it, and have been planning to use these offcuts to do so. And I was committed to getting it right.

And how did that go? (Read on)

I had a fair amount of my recycled cotton denim left over as well as the houndstooth navy and white linen. (Pesky stuff that!) A perfect combo which I could see would make a great jean jacket.

I let it percolate for a while, because deciding what parts to do in what fabric would take some planning. A couple of weeks ago I decided to take the plunge, and at least cut out. I did some planning on a line-drawing of the jacket, and placed pattern pieces to see how it would work. I had to make some changes because there was not quite enough of the denim left to do what I wanted.

inside

I also knew I would need to underline the linen, for several reasons:

• different weight between the denim and the linen
• the darn shiftiness of the linen.

Fortunately, I had some white quilting cotton which had been purchased to line a different project using this linen, but abandoned. In retrospect, I should have indigo dyed it before sewing...

I decided to serge the seams rather than flat fell them.

I was not going to fully make the chest pockets, but decided to at the last minute.

So where did things go wrong?

Welt pockets: they are okay, but just a bit off... so you see the pocket bag lining (which is white, so not subtle) peeking out, and the welt is a bit smaller than the opening. I used upcycled corduroy pants that I had previously indigo dyed for the pocket bags. Not sure it was a great idea - bit of an eye-sore when I look inside!

Cut-on button facing: what on earth happened here? In make number one this fold-over was too small because I had put the long end of the collar to the neck opening. This time my collar is on correctly, yet... I still did not have enough facing.🤷I folded it over, snipped it, and then decided... sew on an extension to make this work better.

Overall it looks fine. I like the fabric combo - it works. And the underlining really helped with the weight of the linen (to even with the denim.) I don't understand why it is tighter across the back than make number one. It is, in the end, a fairly fitted jacket. And I took photo before putting buttons on the sleeve cuffs. I thought it would not show up so much! (Need to find some buttons; there aren't enough of the main buttons!).

facing too short

extension on cut on facing

random scraps for pocket bags