Acceptable imperfections; Arare Anorak

One of my Pattern Review friends, Carol, remarked that she liked reading about my accepting the work as it is without fussing about perfection; for example, accepting the quirks of a difficult fabric. I thought it was rationalising, but I think I will call it acceptable imperfection! As I have ramped up my sewing output in the last couple of years, and participated in Pattern Review discussions, contests and sew-alongs, reading many reviews, I have brought a more critical eye to my work. And sometimes I fear it just doesn't measure up....  There comes a moment, though, when the effort involved in fixing something outweighs the benefits; either I could only make it worse, or it just doesn't matter that much. At that point I resolve to accept it, and most of the time it stops bothering me when wearing it! Consider the diabolical fabric I have used for my current project : the Waffle Arare anorak. 

Read on!

I decided to do this for the Pattern Review Activewear contest this month. Participating in a contest pushes me to try to really up my game. OK, let's be honest, it really just makes me super-critical of the work I am doing!🤣

I really like many of the jackets/coats put out by Waffle; I am drawn in by the aesthetic of the pattern photos, I think! So I decided that the best match for my red neoshell purchased in Vancouver at Our Social Fabric during our September trip was the pullover anorak.

I decided on the collared version - hoods are a hazard when cycling!

I muslined it in that coated cotton bedsheet I used to muslin the blue cycling jacket for the resident entomologist (which gets good use, incidentally!). I discovered a couple of things. The fit is not great for a pull-over... it was hard to pull over my head and shoulders. This IS an outer layer and needs to be roomy. Maybe, though, it is so appealing because it is not. 

So I decided to add side zips...

I also decided to add the typcial curved back that one sees on most cycling jackets.

The other change is that I am adding lots of reflective piping.

The photos are not great - I hope to get some in the next few days, but I did want to get this posted! (In fact, I still need to add the snaps!) 

top of zip with eyelets for drawcord

one too many stitch lines

This neoshell fabric is tricky to work with; it is quite slippery. And one does not want to make mistakes because any holes made by the needle are permanent! Also, fusible interfacing does not fuse! (I learned previously that a bit of heat is fine; I use a protective cloth, of course)

front collar section

The front zip went into the muslin quite easily. (After I realized that the illustration in the instruction was a bit off) Had to try several times with the actual garment to get it lined up nicely. Friendly reminder from a Pattern Review friend (kidnotes) reminded me that hand basting is my friend! Sadly, one can see the evidence of my many trials in the lower zipper guard! I could have cut it out again, but had not noticed the damage in time.

welt pocket

The welt pockets were an unusual construction, and I am not convinced that they are especially sturdy. The piping added bulk, and I had not practised with piping on the muslin, so they are okay, but not quite as pretty as I would like! (Acceptable imperfection!)

When joining the front/back yoke piece to the collar/zip piece, again, with added piping, I got it all on, nicely sewn, examined it and... had sewn it to the wrong side, and so had to unstitch and redo. (I DID baste here, which helped). The second time through I have puckering (it will stay), and the yoke therefore hung beyond the end (the ends don't match up, since some of the collar piece got bunched up... meaning it 'shrunk').

I got the sleeves on acceptably, too. Again, the fabric is such that there is no give, so hard to avoid puckering. I used a new-to-me technique which I will likely use in the future. Sew the sleeves in flat, keeping the sleeve to the feed-dogs, and no pinning. The feed-dogs to the 'easing' for you. I think this will work very well on other fabrics!

I used a centred zip application for the side zips. I added side tabs to cover the bottom of the zip. Got one on the wrong way, a bit more unstiching...

I am fairly pleased with the overall garment. It is slightly tight across the back, but if I shrug it pulls the garment up just a bit, which give me extra room. When I wear this with my matching rain pans I will either look like a fire hydrant, or Santa Clause! (The resident entomologist is not so keen on this fashion statement but hey - it is all about visibility!)

reflective piping works well!

back

side zips

easy to zip up and down

inner drawstring

side zip