Sienna Tartan upcycle, Yet another Jalie 2212

Nearly finished the tartan upcycle. The fit is a bit snug... why did that not show up when CB tried on my Sienna? I took out the side seams a bit, tapering out to 3/8 inch. With the sleeves already nicely sewn in, I could not start at the top, but had to taper from the 5/8 SA at the armscye to 3/8 a bit below. Not really sure it makes enough of a difference to have been worth it, though! All that is left for me to do now is the sleeve and bottom hems (they are pinned in place), and add the buttons! I am really liking this jacket!

The fix for the unmatched front seems to have worked. The front is matched, and this did not noticeably skew anywhere else. Phew!

The bound buttonholes were a real challenge! I am not super happy with the ones on the back, so tried a different method for the front. I ended up undoing them and using the method for shaped bound buttonholes, which is just neater. The difference is that the 'lips' end up behind the hole, whereas in the more tradtional methods they are even with the garment. However, it is hard to get them to look tidy. My conclusion is that I need a pair of sharp. pointy, heavy duty scissors to clip into those corners!

The pattern matching....

Well... I have matched everything horizontally. Except for a tiny bit on the upper left sleeve, where I aligned the upper portion (of the pocket sleeve) with the lower portion vertically, but did not align the horizontal sections, so there is a bit of a mismatch.

For the side seam I sewed up one side,  and noticed it was slightly off, so decided to use the walking foot. 

aside: For those who don't know, the walking foot helps move the top layer of fabric forward. Normally there are feed dogs on the bottom only, and the fabric can become a bit skewed. Normally it is easy enough to compensate for this with different techniques. A walking foot is strongly recommended for knit fabrics, and also when matching plaids. I did not like the Juki walking foot last time I used it, but I thought this would be different (different context.) I actuallylike the generic walking foot on my older, mechanical, Elna.

(that was not supposed to be large italics, but I can't change it!) 

back to the main event In this case.... can you believe... I could actually SEE the upper fabric bunching up, and the result was .... exactly the same as the first run through. GRRR. I did the other side without the walking foot and it is perfect. I decided to leave the other side, since there was no guaranteed that I would get it right, and unstitching too often can distress the fabric... but then I ended up undoing it when reducing the SA! Both sides ended up matched exactly as before I undid them.  Hmmm.

I DID NOT try to match the sleeve heads, nor the front and back at the shoulders. (Nor the collar, either) Remember, I had a limited amount of fabric to play with, so I concentrated on the main lines...

sleeves

I recently learned a new technique for applying jacket sleeves. Often pattern instructions will tell you to sew two lines of eas stich, then ease (like gathering, but less obvious!) the sleeve cap into the armscye. Well this often leads to unlovelypuckers... The new technique is to apply a length of bias tape between the notches, stretching it as you attach it. (Sewing just at the seam line). This will gently create a 'cup', then pinning it into the arscye is easy. Okay - I have only used this technique on this pattern, twice, and maybe it just has a really good draft! However, the instructions DO use the two rows of ease-stitching method.

Yet another Jalie 2212

I finally made up a summer weight version of this. I used the Merlot cotton jersey originally purchased for this, then cast aside as being too light. I had already used the planned charcoal of this fabric for anothe project, so purchased something new. It is a light 'olive' green, recycled cotton and normal polyester... with a kind of nubby texture.

After I made up the version for me, I realized that the upper zip is a bit short, so I decided to make the zip longer on this. How to do that... 

I am not actually sure what to call this method, but it is like sewing a welt pocket. I sewed a rectangle of some linen to the area where I wanted the zip, I sewed around in a rectangle, them cut down the middle of both the facing and main fabric, and clipped into the corners, and turned the facing to the inside. The method is good; the execution a bit dodgy. (Probably due to the scissors? need to splurge!).

I had some trouble top-stitching where there were many layers, and this is visible. However, the top came camping and seems to be a success.  (Although maybe the resident entomologist is fearful of purchasing a RTW pullover!)

I fixed the wonky zipper after

UPCOMING

I have been preparing the pattern for the Itch to Stitch Atenas jeans jacket, which I will be making out of the printed corduroy purchased for bargain basement price at the fabric fleamarket. I pinned the main pieces together to get a sense of fit, and I think I have chosen well. (See photos!) 

tissue paper fitting

So today I would like to cut it out, and also cut out some Carolyn PJ pants. One as a gift, and one as rain-pants. I am a bit wary of using the red neoshell for rain pants because there is enough for a rain coat. But I DO need rain pants.

Special pin-cushion

I had my eye on a special pin cushion to help keep track of which kind of needle was in the machine. It was on Amazon for under $10, but then about $10 shipping, and then unsure if there would be import duties. So I decided I can make that, and I did! There are needle sizes along the top, needle types along the side, and you put a pin to mark the type of needle that is in the machine, and you can place the needle you took of (if it is still to be used), in the correct spot too! I just used a ball-point pen on some cotton muslin, then stuffed with some quilt-batting I had.