Cycling Rain Shell - muslin

 I did the more complete muslin of the cycling jacket this weekend - I traced out the next-smaller size (medium) of the pattern I found last week. (Fashion Freaks - Independent Living Institute). I still find it odd that this really was the only raglan sleeved jacket I could find for a non-stretch fabric. It is so simple, one would think there would be many around. However, I am glad I found this, and that I have sufficient skill to adapt it to what I want. When I finish the actual jacket, I think I will do a step-by-step how-to, for anyone else hoping to make such a garment!

The jacket we are replacing is quite oversized, and even the medium of this version is equally oversized.

I cut out the pattern pieces from a coated bed sheet, which mimics the properties of the technical neo-shell I will be using. And forced me to think of things like how do I weight it down and cut it out? Can't use pins (you don't want to perforate the fabric!). I used tomato cans, but they were too big and got in the way. Responses to this question on Pattern Review suggested heavy, larger washers. I also realized that I could either trace the pattern (since I had not added the seam allowance to the pattern piece), or tape it down. So there is one problem solved! I was also encouraged to buy larger cutting mats. On sale until today at Princess Auto (go figure!) So I ordered two, then realized they would not fit together on my table! Will need to trim them.

I made a few errors in construction order - but had used a large machine basting stitch, so it was easy to unstitch. But this is why we do a muslin, is it not? 

I had put the zipper on, and the zipper guard that I drafted, then realized that I needed to attach the collar piece first because the zipper extends into the collar. This meant, of course, that I needed to sew the five main pieces together (fronts, sleeves, back), add the collar, then add the zipper.

I added a length of piping that I had to one of the sleeve seams, just as practice for the technique. (I will be adding reflective piping in front and back sleeve seams).

It turns out that the collar is too high. I also need to figure out how to interface it so that it is stiffer.

And I also need to decide how to finish the sleeve hems/cuffs. 

However, it is coming along. I will work on the actual garment next week, as part of the April outerwear contest in Pattern Review.

This weekend I also sewed on a few more rows of the amazing technicolour dreamcoat. I now have 6 rows of 10 in this piece. I have not started the sewing on the other piece (the 7 rows by 10). 

I am not convinced it is going to turn out as well as I like it. The squares get distorted due to the different weights, and the pulling where a vertical felled seam needs to be turned over on the horizontal rows.

I need to remember that this is an experiment, and whatever it will be will be fun :) Also, I am hoping to wax it (with actual beeswax) which will stiffen it.

In other sewing news, Ottawa daughter sent me a link to a RTW sleeveless top that she wondered if I could reproduce! I am pleased! I think it will be easy enough to reproduce. Whether we can find fabric she will like is another story!

And as a last minute weekend project, I added elastic to the waistband of the Sabrina slims. Hopefully this holds them up!