Vogue 1865 jacket questions

 Got a few more steps on the Liberty shirt done this week, in spite of feeling a bit fatigued in the evening!

I prepared then installed the cuff-placket on the sleeves. Backwards. Don't ask - it just means that it will be a bit awkward to button them up.

I then sewed the sleeve seams, and prepared and installed the cuffs to the sleeves.

Next steps:

  • attach my non-fusible interfacing to collar and collar band
  • sew collar & band
  • attach collar and band
  • attach sleeves
  • buttons and buttonholes.
I am hoping to get this done over the weekend. We shall see!

I am also thinking ahead to other projects. I have a pile of Christmas gift sewing that I have assigned myself, and I also want to get moving on the Vogue 1865 jacket.

I love the asymetry of this jacket, and I love the brocade that the pattern photo is made with.

I have been planning my version for months. I am planning to use the navy & white small houndstooth linen (which I got via kijiji in 2021), with the recycled denim from my jeans as the contrast. They go together really well. 

However, I am now second-guessing myself on how suitable this fabric combo is for this jacket. Thoughts?! (Feel free to comment here, or, PatternReview friends, on PR!
The first photo is the fabric taken illuminated by the sun. The second is illuminated with a flash, and is more accurate. I am also including a couple photos of the muslin, just for fun.




I am also including photos of the 'Finlay's sovereign quality' cotton that I intend to use as the lining. Frankly, it probably is more like an interfacing weight - I really don't know what this is called. Is it batiste? Should I use something different? This has been in my stash since the early 1990s. I think it would be used in India to make a sari-blouse or petticoat. It is quite see-through, it is stiff (although it has been washed). Frankly I don't even know if I will have enough and so might have to buy something else anyway!

Forgive these two muslin photos - they were not carefully placed on the dressform... (Actually, it looks so bad that it is embarassing! I have in fact adjusted the fit of the shoulder width, and with the required shoulder pad it looks fine!




Comments

  1. Young Robert here…I like your choices for the jacket. These fabrics seem very complimentary to me. Can you identify your concern? I would look for a Bemberg rayon or silky for the lining though. That cotton is really sweet, and it might work fine. Whenever I have used a soft cotton for a lining (or rayon challis too) it seems to work out well but this fabric’s stiffness/crispness might be an issue, and also the sheerness of it. I would be tempted to find a more visible use for this souvenir fabric.

    Your Liberty shirt is looking great!

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    1. Thanks YoungRobert. I think my concern is the oomph factor of the brocade vs the more prosaic houndstooth! Not sure... I will give more thought to the lining fabric...

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  2. Artcat from PR, here, aka Pat. I think Young Robert is right about the lining fabric. Lining should hide construction details, and should not be too sheer for that reason. Also, something that’s ‘silkier’ let’s the garment slip over anything under it better than the cotton would, even if it’s only your under things, as a blouse would be worn. I like those two fabrics together. The second picture shows up the blue in the check that makes it so harmonious with the denim.

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    1. Thanks Pat/Artcat! Some good points to think about!

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  3. Did you finish V 1865? I am cutting it out now and I am seeing that a size 16 is larger than the 24 on the Front and back side panels - like the guides were printed/drafted backwards? Teresa or
    To a T on pattern review

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    Replies
    1. Hi, no, I put it aside. BUT, if you look again at the pattern pieces you will notice that the size 16 is NOT actually bigger... look at the other side of that piece and you will see that is as though tthe whole size is pushed to the right. ... Hard to explain, but take a looke!

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