Marta skirt, (V2)

Oh boy, not a lot of sewing last week. I did some THINKING about sewing, though!  I did get a lot of my fixing done on the Marta skirt last weekend, and got a few steps closer to the end this week. I also got the hem pinned on the special occasion pants (but no further).

I did get a bit more done on the weekend...

Do you know what slow sewing really is? It is fast sewing. Because when you are taking shortcuts you invariably have to go back and remake things. Thus making it slow sewing! 😁

In order to make the underlining fit (as flatlining) I had to add a small insert into the length of each of the underlining panels. What a pain to accomplish. I kind of planned it one step at a time. I knew I had to cut the panel in half, in the middle, and I knew I had to cut some strips. I randomly selected a width (which was almost too narrow for one panel). Next step was to sew it right sides together on one of the edges.  It was the next edge I was not sure how to accomplish. What I decided to do was to trim the insert 1 cm in from the edge of the underlining itself. This would leave 1 cm seam allowance on both parts. I did this by using my envelope guage (!), laid the pieces flat, put the underlining edge on the 1cm edge, then cut at the outer edge of the envelope - as can be seen, more or less, in the photo. This worked. Only on one piece did I sew the first seam wrong sides together and need to unstitch.

Photo below shows that with this busy print this underlining surgery doesn't show too much. And besides it is on the INSIDE!

Next step was to sew on the button bands. No - not true - before that I had to topstitch my seams AND sew the hem, since the hem has to be done before the button bands. This meant making some seam binding, which is not so easy with slinky silk!

So hem done, on to the button band. One edge remains 'raw", and since I am hiding all raw edges on this garment I knew I had to finish this with more than the suggested zig-zag. I considered a hong kong binding, but went instead with  a serged edge - since I have the serger here AND have taken a course (which mainly means I can thread it more or less competently - it took me a few tries when changing to a darker colour!) I sewed on the button band with no hastle, and used one of my special guide presser feet to stich in the ditch. 

Next step - the waist-band. applied the interfacing, then sewed the front and back pieces together on the inner and outer waistband, and went to pin it. For some reason it was too short. No panic, but I did decide to sleep on it! If I have any of this fabric left it is gone AWOL. I decided to discard the inner waistband, salvage some of it to add a piece to the outer waistband, and use some of my black silk noil to make a new inner waistband.

Finally finished it, and am underwhelmed! Not sure if it is myunderlining application technique that messed it up, but it is all puckered up - and this was pressed, too. So I will have to come back and redo the hem, I think! 😞

In happier news, the special occasion outfit is done. But photos will wait for the special occasion!