Angelia shorts (2)

 I guess I have finished the last garment of the summer. There are still two projects that are already started, two projects muslined and waiting to go, and one project with the pattern and fabric purchased which have to be started.

And, of course, I now need to divide my attention between teaching and sewing😁

(Here is my review of these shorts at PatternReview; mostly the same info as here...)

I bought this lovely cotton/linen blend 'canvas'. I tossed it in the wash for a pre-treatment and it came out very soft. This Ruby Star fabric is called 'Tomato', and I think it is inspired by pasta (see the spaghetti noodles?!)

I decided to make this version a bit longer than the previous version. Even though V1 looks nice when I am standing they ride up high when seated, a look I don't love! 

I thought I had been careful about where I lengthened the shorts, but it still ended up that I could not fold them up for the hem in the way they instruct. (Too tapered, so did not fit properly). I decided just to hem it at half of that, and then when they get folded up it will just have to show some of the inside of the short. (The original method had you fold in a double hem, then when you fold them up to the outside you see outer fabric, not inner fabric.) So in the end they are bit more than the 1" I had added in length; but that's okay. (See photo of hem a bit further below)

For the fly, I really considered doing a different method, the one I had used on the jeans. BUT on this pattern there is a cut-on facing both sides of the fly, and I would have had to cut one off, and make other adjustments. So I decided that since other people had really liked the construction that comes with this pattern I would read it carefully and see if I could avoid whatever mistake I had made. I pin basted it for several steps, and realized that indeed it WOULD work well. Very well, in fact. I can't pinpoint what I did wrong the first time, but it is great this time. So pleased! (see photo, left)

For some reason, when I installed my waistband it was a bit too short. I probably did not sew the darts precisely, or else I got the seam allowance wrong by a fraction. So Just adjusted the darts, and it fits well. It actually fits VERY well!

If you are planning to make these and are reading this for guidance, may I suggest using this order of construction:

• Front pockets
• Back darts,
• back pockets
• coin pocket and flap
• inseam,
• crotch seam
• fly,
• side seams,
• waistband/ belt loops
• hem

Check out the instructions for each of these sections. The reason for this is that for some reason they have you start with joining all four main pieces and THEN adding the back darts, various pockets. I find it easier to manipulate the fabric if Iwork on those first. I don't see any advantage to their order of construction except maybe to get the most challenging part out of the way first.

I also lengthened the 'coin pocket'. I thought that it would look funny so small with the added length. What I really wanted to do was add a full size cargo pocket, but I did not seem to have enough fabric, NOR enough space on the leg. So I will give that more thought for the next make for next summer!

Oh yes; I miscalculated how many buttons I needed to buy (I was doing it from the top of my head, NOT the supply list!), and for now the side tabs are safety pinned! And, speaking of buttons (and button holes) my new Juki makes fairly nice buttonholes, but I still had trouble with the waist-band button hole. I had to start at the edge furthest from the edge because it got caught going the other way. And of course, it is not placed exactly where I want it. I also continue to sew the buttons with my (oklder) machine. I only discovered that this winter, and I don't imagine I will ever go back to hand sewing buttons! But in the meantime someone at PatternReview posted a great video tutorial on how to do THAT well. So I have a plan for those items when there is no other option.

So this weekend I still want to get the underlining on the Marta skirt all fixed up. NOT looking forward to that. It will mean cutting strips from the silk, and sewing it in length-wise pieces  to the slashed underlining, and hoping I get it the right size. Deep breath, and one step at a time.

AND, I am being a bit ambitious here: I REALLY want to cut out my Liberty shirt and get started on that.

So ... back to school this week, end of summer.