Jeans update - moving forward with the 'wearable' muslin

 I have been working on the denim wearable muslin of the jeans. I had some denim in my stash - purchased many years ago, and it seemed to me that I should do a trial run of the entire process, and also get a better idea of the fit in a stiffer denim.

I based it all together, with a centre zip instead of the fly, to get a final check on the fit. I was reasonably satisfied, except that the front crotch hang a bit low. So I have adjusted the pattern pieces so that the final one will be fixed, BUT for this I just sewed in a dart across each leg just below the crease in the leg. Not too worried - it may indeed look strange, but these really are for learning.

What am I learing/practising?

• serging (borrowed machine, new skill!)
• careful top-stitching
• constructing the fly
• getting over thick seams

There are other design elements in the use of the fabric. I JUST had enough for the main leg pieces, (which may not be as long as I hoped), one waistband piece, the yoke, and the pocket pieces. So I am using other denim for the back pockets and the coin pocket, and possibly the belt hoops. I am using cotton scraps for the pocket and waistband linings. 

I have the front pockets, and fly done, and the back yoke and back sewn together. 

They are fine.... Stay tuned for the critique!

The top stitching on the fly is a bit uneven. It is hard to get around the curve and keep an even stitch! But the fly looks fine! I ended up using Johanna Lundstrom's 'Sewing a perfect Jeans zipper' tutorial because it was reccommended, and it was straightforward. I practised it, and the method in the pattern instructions on other fabric, and went with the video. My pattern's fly does not open in the typical jeans direction, so I had to switch that (Just a small change in a trim, and when I do the good jeans I will need to reverse the fly and fly facing pieces when cutting. (note to self!!!)

I hammered the thick seam where the yokes and righ and left back meet. It flattened it down very well, but created a tiny hole! I think this denim is a bit weak!

I am using Gutterman denim thread (not as thick as topstitching; did not know that when I bought it, and will really have to decide what to use for the final version). It might be eaiser to use because it is thinner.... I am using an all-purpose thread in the bobbin. I have played a bit with the upper tension to get it right, and done practice runs. But it still does not seem consistent. (I had to unstitch the first run0through of the fly top-stitchign because it was not tight). 

I am worried about what happened on the underside at the thick seam (see photo); the top thread has looped on the underside...

The next test (possibly this evening) is the fit (again!). I am going to baste the side seams and inseams to check for fit, then will have to unstitch in order to to the inseams (which get done and topstitched before the side seams. Harder to change at that point!)

Updating the same evening to add that I sewed the in- and side- seams and ... too loose. It is a never-ending circle. If I make it as tight as I want them, the back will ride down when I sit down. And I feel like I am circling back to an earlier width! And the back thighs have too much fabric, but again, how much do I need in order to be able to move? It has been a long time since I wore slim fitting NON-stretch jeans, and so the decisions are tough. I have no idea how much my good fabric will stretch with wear.

Sleep on it, and try again another evening!