Jeans - second muslin (and more)

 No sewing last weekend, and precious little during the week!

But on the weekend I seemed to get a lot done. Not a lot to show for it, in terms of photos, though!

I got back to tracing the pattern for the jumper, and making the alterations for the angled integrated pocket. Oof, that was hard to get my head around!

Here is the line drawing of the the jumper I am making. (McCalls 7831) Very simple and straightforward. Until I try to change things up!

I don't think I will put the chest pocket on it, and I might add back hip pockets.

Marta skirt pocket

I wanted to recreate the pocket from my Marta skirt (the embellished cord). This jumper has fewer panels; it has a front centre seam, back seam and side seams. So I am creating one pocket across the front right side. I ended up tracing the pocket bag & welt and the lower skirt, then slashing and splitting them to the width of the front right panel. I then had to true the line across. I cut it out today, but did not get to sewing it; but it looks like it will work. Hoping the angles are still lined up nicely!

On the right is the angled pocket I am trying to make. (That is the muslin fabric, obviously! I am going to use the black silk noile I bought via kijiji in the Fall.)

You can see how much wider my piece is than the original (paper in the photo) that I am basing it on.

Otherwise this weekend I spent time on my second muslin for my jeans. I cut out the fabric Saturday, and sewed Sunday. I had already adjusted the pattern. On the first muslin I had added some room at the hips, scooped out a bit of the crotch, and then narrowed the thigh and legs.

Sewed it up, and, well, not what I was hoping for! I narrowed it too much so it was tight around the calves, which pulled down the back when I sat down. And the hips were WAY too roomy. 

In the photo I have fixed up the left side, but not the right. (Although I did have to unstitch it from the knee down!) You can't really see it, but it is better! So now I have to figure out how to reduce the wrinkles in the upper thigh, and decide if I need to further scoop the crotch. When I sit the back pulls down, but I can't decide if it is a normal amount, or if it needs to be adjusted. 

I really want a contoured jeans, and since my denim is non-stretch I have to get it right - not too tight, but not too loose!