Gosling shirt

 I finally got started on the Gosling shirt for Montreal-daughter's beau. 

It is a frustrating pattern, and I am not happy with the inside corners of the collar stay (that is probably my fault, and not so much the pattern). I can't seem to get the inside piece (which if folded under and sewn down after the other side is sewn) to fold over as much as it should, and, as this close up shows, yuck. This often happens, and I don't know how to avoid it...

Frankly this close-up photo is making me very sad.

And then there is the sleeve head, which does NOT fit the armscye. I have the notches lined up, and the back notch to the centre work, the notches to the edges work, but this front section leaves me with this much extra fabric that can NOT be eased in.

In the muslin I think I just pulled it all to the front (ignoring the front notch), and trimmed off the extra. I have measured the pattern piece against the original printout, and I have not traced it wrong. How do they get away with such sloppy drafting?

Just putting it aside for a few more days.

I have enough fabric to redo the collar. But unpicking the collar might damage the edge of the shirt body, which frays, as it is linen.

I also had to lengthen the button band; fortunately I knew that from the muslin. But again - what sloppy drafting!