Camisole/undershirts

WISDOM GAINED: Knits will not remain pressed in half if you go along the crossgrain.

Feeling quite proud of this. I am calling it an undershirt, since I plan to wear it for warmth, under my shirts. But that word gives a fairly masculine vibe!  

I was ready to use a purchased or free pattern, but could not find something suitable. I was using the remnants from the leggings, and originally had planned to make more undies. But the Pattern Review February pop-up was anything red, or hearts, or Valentine, and I had the idea to make a cami with a sweetheart neckline. The closest I could find of a sweetheart neckline in a knit was a Jallie top. But I copied the technique (a strip of elastic several inches along the middle front), and traced a pattern from an old beat-up cami I already owned. Had to cannibalise it for the hardware, but it had holes in it anyway. (I may regret this, though!)

The sweetheart treatment worked very well. 

I think I sewed this on the cross grain, because that is what I had left, and the stretch was even both ways. Although I am a knitter, I had not really clued in to the fact that in knit fabrics there was a knit and purl side! (Thanks ClaudC at Pattern review for mentioning this in one of her reviews!) 

When drafting the pattern I fortunately remembered that the side seams on the front and the back should match - the more or less freehand line I had drawn when copying the model needed to be matched (phew! clearly new to pattern drafting!). 

I made a one-inch band of binding for the top and underarms and straps. I thought of sewing it at a fixed length, but decided to use the fittings from the model and replicate that system. It gives it a bit more of a professional air. Live-at home daughter, master of faint praise, said that it looked like something you would see on a hanger at Sears. (How does she even remember Sears?!)

I also used the dress form for the first time. She still has no legs, but I propped her on a chair to see how the cami was fitting before doing the underarm/strap bindings. The family asks why she is so lumpy - I say she is about as lumpy as me!

(Updated Feb 20)

I have now made another one with the eggplant (purple) merino, but changed up the strap, making it thicker and fixed strap. Partly because I have no fittings left! I was worried it will be super tight, since it has a bit less stretch, but it is fine. The stretch was in the right direction.

The fit is better on me than on the body double. The finishing of the strap is not quite as nice as the first model. And, of course, I am still learning about sewing effectively with knits. 

I used a double needle again for the hem.  It tunnels a bit, so, with some scraps, I tried stabilizing with tissue paper. That eliminated the tunneling, but it was too difficult to get the paper off without ruining the stitching. (It works fine on a single stitch, though!)

I forgot to get a photo from the back before putting it on this morning.