Long johns

Wisdom gained: Don't buy cheap elastic!

(The photographer staged a work-refusal yesterday, so this is a day later than planned. The photographer also forbade me to post these on the internet.... who's the boss, anyway?)

I got around to those long johns in the last couple of days. This is my first major project with knits, and my level of confidence goes up an down. I am using the Jalie Clara leggings, which have no front centre seam, and no side seams. A pretty clever pattern piece, really! I measured my inseam, and thought I was two inches shorter than the inseam in the measurements, but decided that a bit long was not a problem. Good thing, too, because later  I noticed the instruction to measure the inseam TO THE FLOOR (I had only measured to my ankles!)

I started with the 100% cotton jersey, which was to be a trial run, before working on the expensive merino. Both seemed to have a similar (and the required) stretch, and, to be frank, even the cotton was not so cheap!

I traced the pattern yesterday, and cut out the cotton (the red). I did practice runs with each of the stitches I was going to be using before actually stitching, and tested their stretchiness.

Instead of simply folding the length in half, I measured it so as to maximize the size of pieces left over. I have quite a bit left over - perhaps will make tank-top/undershirts? Or more undies!

The sewing went fine; I used the overcast stitch; it was hard to judge where the 1/4 inch line was, but I think I got it. Jalie suggests an odd combination (zig zag the edge, then use a normal straight stitch while stretching the fabric. I had images of stretching the fabric out of line, so decided to go with my fancy dandy stretch stitches.) In addition to the overcast stitch which I used for seams, I used the special stitch for sewing elastic to the fabric, I used the 3-step zig-zag where zig-zag was called for, and, most exciting was using a twin needle for the bottom hems!

I had cut out the full piece, instead of the shorter (at the waist) length, which I needed to do because I was using the large, contoured waistband. No problem.

I had bought 5 m of elastic at Fabricland, and as I was applying it I noticed it had a warp to it. I used it anyway, and, as can be seen in the photo, it makes a wavy waist band. 😬 A Pattern Review contributor suggested that the elastic would not have a long life. Which make me sad!

The fit of the cotton tights was perfect. Snug, perfect around the waist, a perfect length (phew!). I wore them all day today, and they were comfortable - but possibly not as warm as the merino (or maybe that is all in my head.) When looking at the stitches, I could not tell if they were 'pulling' or if that is just what this stitch looks like. I am going with the latter!

Today I cut and sewed the merino version. I made one error - When you zig-zag the elastic in place (a top-stitch) that stitching should be on the inside. I thought I had it right, but when I finished I realized I had it backwards. I decided not to unstitch to redo. I was worried it might just create holes, Laziness? maybe! Anyway, this version also has a wavy waistband...

I did not try them on until evening, and then I was a bit disappointed. I guess the fabric is not as tight as the cotton jersey, and I could not help but feel like it did not fit as snugly in the back of the waist. We will see how it feels tomorrow under pants... Fingers crossed. 

I added tags - I got these in my stocking (okay, I purchased them). They are tiny, and say hand-made, and I put them on the outside between the waist band and the garment. Just for fun!