Kalle shirt number three (last one for a while)

 Wisdom gained: Go with your gut when choosing patterns!

I made my third Kalle; this time the shirt. I did not do the cropped front, but a more evenly balanced front and back (with a bit of high-low difference.) I used the 'jewel' linen gauze (the same one that is supposed to become the Marta dress for me...), from Blackbird fabric. It is gorgeous. But given its wrinkly nature, a bit awkward to prepare for cutting. Just how much should I press this out?!

I really had no trouble making this shirt. It does go together very nicely, and given the experience from the other two I made no major errors. I was careful in sewing the yoke to not catch anything extra while sewing the burrito method. I used the thread-tail technique for getting nice sharp corners on the collar and cuff, I took my time with the placket, and buttonholes and buttons, and it all looks good.

But it is oversized, and, frankly, I want a nice fitted shirt! And an unforeseen problem of an oversized shirt as the weather cools - the cold air just blows up inside...(Incidentally, I got nice compliments on my turquoise Kalle shirt dress - which I wore with mid calf white jeans)

I used the buttons that Montreal-daughter gave me for Christmas. I had been planning to use them on the Marta dress but: 

• there are not enough of them
• they are too big for Marta's placket  
• who knows if I will ever actually sew Marta for me?

So they look great on this Kalle. I did use extra smaller red buttons for the upper button on the cuffs, and at the neck. There were four red-centered buttons and two black-centred ones, so I used the black ones (which were also slightly smaller diameter) on the cuffs, and the red ones on the front. It is a kind of funky vibe!

I used some Robert Kaufman quilting cotton from my favourite Japanese inspired collection to make a bias peek-a-boo trim for the hem. I love it!

My favourite part of the Kalle are the sleeves (the extension piece). I LOVE that they are quite snug... no, not snug but fitted. And I love the French-cuff... They are a tad short, though, and I am not sure if that is intended... (Careless, I know!)

And I do enjoy wearing the shirt, With jeans. On the weekend. And, maybe I do need a bit more variety for my weekend wear. But I am still looking for a fitted shirt.

At the beginning of the pandemic I made a white linen shirt. I like it. However I settled for a pattern which I did not love. But I could not really identify what it was that I was not liking. Now I kind of can. Although they had some princess seams, the shirt is still quite loose. The cuffs are not French cuffs (which, as I just said above, I love. But I did not know that before!) And the length of the white linen shirt is not quite right. (Never mind that the under-placket is longer than the over placket, and needs to be fixed!)

So, bottom line on Kalle (yes, back to Kalle) - I probably won't make another one for a while. 

If I make another shirt (currently eying Liesl & co's classic, or recital or a combo shirt) I might compare the Kalle sleeves and make sure they have a similar line. And the cuffs!